Buying motocross coolant: the key points listed
This is what you need to know before heading to the track:
- Higher boiling point: Special motocross coolant has a much higher boiling point than water on its own. Combined with the pressure in the cooling system, this prevents the fluid from boiling and escaping as steam.
- Corrosion protection: Prevents limescale and rust buildup in your aluminum radiator and protects the water pump seal.
- Kant-en-klaar: Virtually all variants are ready-to-use. Never mix them with tap water to prevent limescale formation.
- Engine Ice as an upgrade: Lowers operating temperature more effectively than standard fluids, ideal for heavy dirt tracks and 4-stroke motorcycles.
- Do not mix: Never mix different types of coolants (such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol) together to prevent clumping.
Why regular car coolant or water will damage your engine block
Pouring tap water into your radiator is asking for trouble. Water boils at just 100 degrees and leaves limescale in the narrow channels of your radiator. Cheap car coolant is also a poor choice. It often contains aggressive silicates that eat away at the vulnerable seals of your water pump.
A motocross bike runs much hotter than a car and has less consistent airflow. Always choose a dedicated motocross coolant from brands like Putoline, Motul, or Denicol. These protect your aluminum radiator and keep the rubber components of your cooling system supple. Also check out our full range of oil & chemicals.
Engine Ice vs. Putoline, Motul, and Denicol: Which is the best choice?
Many riders specifically look for Engine Ice when they want to upgrade their cooling system. Although this is a well-known name in motorsports, the fluids from Putoline (such as the popular Ultracool 12), Motul, and Denicol deliver at least equally extreme track performance.
These fluids are ready-to-use and specially developed to keep the operating temperature of modern, high-heat 4-stroke and 2-stroke engines stable. Whether you choose Motul's reliability, Denicol's premium protection, or Putoline's proven cooling; these brands will prevent your engine from losing power due to overheating. If you still want to switch from another brand or type of coolant? Always fully drain your old system first and flush it with demineralized water to prevent clumping.
Refilling and flushing coolant: key mechanic tips
If you want to top up or fully replace your coolant? When working in the paddock or garage, always use a clean work surface with one of our milieumatten. Then follow these steps in the workshop:
Step 1: Only work on a cold engine block Never remove the radiator cap while the engine is still warm. There is pressure in the system; the boiling fluid will spray out immediately and cause severe burns.
Step 2: Fully drain the coolant Loosen the drain bolt on your water pump and remove the radiator cap so the system drains completely.
Step 3: Fill slowly Pour the new fluid slowly into the radiator. This allows air to escape. Use our handy partsfinder to instantly see which parts fit your specific make and model year.
Step 4: Bleed the air Squeeze the radiator hoses a few times to push air bubbles upwards. Start the engine briefly without the cap, let it run for a minute, turn it off, and check the level again. Top up as needed to just below the filler neck.
If the level drops after a ride? Immediately check your hoses, radiator cap, or water pump seal for leaks. White smoke from the exhaust or milky motor oil usually indicates a leaking pakkingen cylinder head gasket.
